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C905 CamDriver Modded |
jake20
Joined: Jan 23, 2009
Posts: > 500
From: USA
PM |
I also agree that it would be much more usefull to have a shutter control than color tuning.
But for me DM3.8 seems to be VERY accurate with colors.
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-17 19:26 ] |
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edwardob
Joined: Oct 20, 2009
Posts: 127
PM |
we certainly have a great choice of drivers available now |
Vit
Joined: Nov 13, 2007
Posts: 279
From: Brazil
PM |
On 2009-11-17 00:55:44, jake20 wrote:
I also agree that it would be much more usefull to have a shutter control than color tuning.
But for me DM3.8 seems to be VERY accurate with colors.
That's not a particular hard situation to deal with. See that picture you took at the mall. Look at the orange. It's got way too much saturation. I guess that sometimes fine color tuning is better than having manual shutter speed control. Most of the times I don't need to have slower shutter speeds that I already have. Exposure times like 1/2 s, 1 s, 2 s... That's not different from what you can get either with my mixed drivers or with DM's earlier drivers. All you need is set the camera to Twilight Landscape mode. I haven't seen so far a really long exposure time shot here, something like 4s or 8s. Comparing shots taken with the same shutter speed but with different ISO values is not fair. ISO 200 may seem brighter, but certainly worse in terms of noise. What I have seen was pics taken with not too slow shutter and ISO 200. If I set ISO 200 instead of ISO 100 for Twilight Landscape, pictures would also look much brighter. Another thing is that almost all people here post very small pictures, and that way we cannot see detailed results in terms of pixel to pixel quality.
Jake, I've seen one comment of yours where you seemed amazed by a 1/2 s shutter speed (ISO 200) shot you've taken. Look at my pics @ the snooker bar. All of them have ISO 100, and many of them have shutter speeds of 1s. They are almost noise free. All I needed to do is set the camera to Twilight Landscape mode.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-17 13:12 ] Every Picture Tells a Story |
buba_SE
Joined: Sep 03, 2008
Posts: 57
From: Brazil
PM |
DM 3.8
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edwardob
Joined: Oct 20, 2009
Posts: 127
PM |
for me what is really missing in all drivers is forced flash!
dream on! |
fe1ixs
Joined: Sep 25, 2009
Posts: 55
PM |
@VIT
Let me clear things up.
So you said manual ISO control would not be necessary since the camera will select the lowest ISO by itself if we set the camera to twilight landscape?
The same for manual shutter speed control, we won't need the manual function since the camera scene (twilight landscape) by default will select the lowest shutter speed value if necessary?
We are all probably under presumption that the camera scene mode doesn't guarantee the best setting for certain condition. For instance selecting twilight landscape mode on very low light condition / minimum light, might cause the camera to adjust the ISO level up (which create more noise). That is why some modders invented the manual control. But if this assumption isn't true, then your driver pretty much fit with everything we need. After all we just want the best and easiest driver to use. that's all.
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wahehe15
Joined: Aug 19, 2009
Posts: 111
From: Senippilihp
PM |
@fe1ixs
I totally agree on every word you've said! |
jake20
Joined: Jan 23, 2009
Posts: > 500
From: USA
PM |
@fe1ixs
I also agree with you.
i am not sure that Vit is understanding this though.
@Vit
your pic at the snooker bar was auto set to ISO 100 with 1s shutter speed by just selecting twilight landscape, but this will not guarantee these ISO settings and shutter speed for all twilight landscape shots correct? depending on the amount of light available for the scene.
i still believe we need manual shutter control, because the camera will not always select the optimal settings for the picture we want to capture.
for example...what if i wanted to capture 2 pictures of a waterfall.. one that freezes the water in time so I can see the drops, and another shot that blurs the water to give the flowing effect.
how do i accomplish this without having manual control of the shutter speed?
thanks!!
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-17 16:08 ] |
fe1ixs
Joined: Sep 25, 2009
Posts: 55
PM |
@VIT
I'm not trying to discredit you. You driver absolutely perfect complement to the current one. The saturation control is one of them. But for creative shot like jake mention, I still think ISO and shutter speed control will be needed. For just ordinary shot, your driver might fit well enough.
I think the best combination is DM 3.8 with Saturation manual (with VIT driver). Color tuning can be added if possible.
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Vit
Joined: Nov 13, 2007
Posts: 279
From: Brazil
PM |
On 2009-11-17 16:18:25, fe1ixs wrote:
@VIT
Let me clear things up.
So you said manual ISO control would not be necessary since the camera will select the lowest ISO by itself if we set the camera to twilight landscape?
The same for manual shutter speed control, we won't need the manual function since the camera scene (twilight landscape) by default will select the lowest shutter speed value if necessary?
We are all probably under presumption that the camera scene mode doesn't guarantee the best setting for certain condition. For instance selecting twilight landscape mode on very low light condition / minimum light, might cause the camera to adjust the ISO level up (which create more noise). That is why some modders invented the manual control. But if this assumption isn't true, then your driver pretty much fit with everything we need. After all we just want the best and easiest driver to use. that's all.
First things first.
At once, I've edited the Cybershot Xperience in order to provide the same JPEG quality that we had with DM 3.5 and also to provide better night shots, by putting together slower shutter speeds with manual focus. That action provided awesome usability of Twilight Landscape mode even for macro shots, with shutter speeds of even more than 1s with forced ISO 100. It was received as way too much complicated, although it had a vast number of manual controls to play with.
Secondly, I've tried to decrease the number of manual controls to provide users with some of the most critical manual controls available at the moment. Now you complaint that it's too simple.
I really can't understand that. Most of the critics seem to lack arguments. What I've seen so far is shots that could simply have been taken with either mine or with previous DM drivers as well. I see no difference in shots taken with your supposedly manual shutter speed when faced against what we already had before. If you come and post a picture with 4 or 8 seconds of exposure time with ISO 100, than I would be convinced that the new manual shutter speed option is really good, but if you come with 1s, ISO 200 pics, then I would say it's pretty much much less usefull than having manual color control and saturation. It's the same that I already can get with my drivers and with previous DM's.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-17 19:26 ] Every Picture Tells a Story |
Vit
Joined: Nov 13, 2007
Posts: 279
From: Brazil
PM |
On 2009-11-17 17:06:24, jake20 wrote:
@fe1ixs
I also agree with you.
i am not sure that Vit is understanding this though.
@Vit
your pic at the snooker bar was auto set to ISO 100 with 1s shutter speed by just selecting twilight landscape, but this will not guarantee these ISO settings and shutter speed for all twilight landscape shots correct? depending on the amount of light available for the scene.
i still believe we need manual shutter control, because the camera will not always select the optimal settings for the picture we want to capture.
for example...what if i wanted to capture 2 pictures of a waterfall.. one that freezes the water in time so I can see the drops, and another shot that blurs the water to give the flowing effect.
how do i accomplish this without having manual control of the shutter speed?
thanks!!
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-17 16:08 ]
First, I am finding all this stuff really, really curious. I thought that you were the one who liked to take shots without having to adjust all settings. Now you come and say that you want to adjust settings for optimum results... Really strange.
You haven't read my posts completely. Twilight Landscape mode has forced ISO 100.
If you can provide images to show that manual shutter speed is actually working, in other words, that you can set a fixed shutter speed, then I would say it's a good thing, but still I would not say it's more important than having color tuning at hand.
As for the waterfall, If you use Twilight Landscape it's almost guaranteed that you're gonna have the proper effect captured. If you set 1s for exposure time, for example, you may end up with an overexposured picture.
Anyway, as I've written, this driver provides the best for my needs, but it may not be the best for your needs.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-17 20:11 ] Every Picture Tells a Story |
jake20
Joined: Jan 23, 2009
Posts: > 500
From: USA
PM |
@Vit,
please do not get angry or upset, as i am just trying to figure out what is the best driver for my needs.
I am not a photography expert such as yourself.
I have already thanked you previously for dedicating time to work on these drivers.
It may be just a matter of understanding how to use your driver properly, thats all.
This is why i asked you how to properly use your driver to take a picture of an example situation, like a waterfall.
you still did not really answer my question on how to achieve both the water "flowing" effect, and the still shot effect with your driver.
is it just a matter of hoping that the camera selects the right shutter speed for the effect i want?
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-17 19:43 ] |
edwardob
Joined: Oct 20, 2009
Posts: 127
PM |
@ good on you......you've provided us with another option we can use if we want.....
your doing your best....and we still want more...i'm looking to your next incarnation
if i knew how to do it myself i would...but i can't...
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fe1ixs
Joined: Sep 25, 2009
Posts: 55
PM |
On 2009-11-17 20:40:00, jake20 wrote:
@Vit,
please do not get angry or upset, as i am just trying to figure out what is the best driver for my needs.
I am not a photography expert such as yourself.
I have already thanked you previously for dedicating time to work on these drivers.
It may be just a matter of understanding how to use your driver properly, thats all.
This is why i asked you how to properly use your driver to take a picture of an example situation, like a waterfall.
you still did not really answer my question on how to achieve both the water "flowing" effect, and the still shot effect with your driver.
is it just a matter of hoping that the camera selects the right shutter speed for the effect i want?
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-17 19:43 ]
@jake20
I think what VIT tried to explain to us is he already modified the twilight landscape scene so that if you select this scene mode, the camera will force to select the lowest ISO (ISO 100) and lower shutter speed compare to the original driver. In another word, to get the best low light shot, you just simply select this scene mode without having to play with manual setting. The only adjustment needed is the manual focus (for macro) and color enhancement.
@VIT
I appreciate for all of this. like I said earlier, our presumption might not be true and apparently not. The assumption base on basic principles of how the camera exposure work. You really make the use of this camera easy and fun. Thank you so much and I'm waiting for your next update!
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Vit
Joined: Nov 13, 2007
Posts: 279
From: Brazil
PM |
On 2009-11-17 20:40:00, jake20 wrote:
@Vit,
please do not get angry or upset, as i am just trying to figure out what is the best driver for my needs.
I am not a photography expert such as yourself.
I have already thanked you previously for dedicating time to work on these drivers.
It may be just a matter of understanding how to use your driver properly, thats all.
This is why i asked you how to properly use your driver to take a picture of an example situation, like a waterfall.
you still did not really answer my question on how to achieve both the water "flowing" effect, and the still shot effect with your driver.
is it just a matter of hoping that the camera selects the right shutter speed for the effect i want?
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-17 19:43 ]
Hi, Jake. I'm not angry. Nevertheless, what upsets me is to receive bad critics without proper arguments, like wahehe15 likes to do. Another thing that upsets me is feeling like writing to the wind. That's indeed frustrating and makes me want not to answer things at all. Finally, what makes me want to stop posting things is having to deal with incomplete/incorrect arguments, when there plenty examples available to refute them, like saying that a given driver is not capable of doing something when it's already been shown the contrary.
Every Picture Tells a Story |
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Posted: 2009-11-17 00:55
