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C905 CamDriver Modded


Click to view updated thread with images




Posted by jake20
another comparison shot.. twilight portrait has much less of an effect in DM 3.8... the low light picture is a lot darker than in 3.5

DM3.5 twilight portrait
Exposure Time 1/4 sec
ISO - 200

DM 3.8 (beta) twilight portrait
Exposure Time 1/6 sec
ISO - 200

[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-08 20:20 ]



Posted by Bryan84

On 2009-11-07 18:04:54, Vit wrote:

On 2009-11-07 05:54:17, Bryan84 wrote:
Can someone give good how-to tips on:

- Spot Metering
- Normal Metering

Like when should we use which and under what condition? I remember previously there was a few posts on this, maybe can someone help to share some tips?




I'm gonna say what I know from my experiences with them:

Normal metering measures the whole scene and sets the shutter speed and ISO accordingly. If there are highly bright areas and highly dark areas at the same picture, using normal metering may, for instance, priorize only the highlights and then you finish with images whithin those dark areas almost undistinguishable from each other. That would lead you to change EV settings manually, in order to get the exposure right.

On the other hand, using Spot metering may allow you to lock the exposure on those dark areas to priorize them, without having to ajust EV settings manually.

The thing is that sometimes the object on which you plan to lock the exposure may be far from the object you intend to focus on, so the latter ends up blurred. In that case I see no other way but use Normal metering and adjust manually the EV compensation (or in DM 3.5, ISO) settings.

Here it follows an example to illustrate that:

These first two were taken with Normal metering. Notice that no matter where I fix the focus (either at the front or at the rear of the mouse) the exposure settings are the same for both pics:





On the other hand, with Spot metering, If I fix the focus at the front I get one setting for exposure, while for the rear I get another:




[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-07 19:48 ]



Thanks for explaining!

Posted by Vit

On 2009-11-08 02:19:42, jake20 wrote:
another comparison shot.. twilight portrait has much less of an effect in DM 3.8... the low light picture is a lot darker than in 3.5

DM3.5 twilight portrait

DM 3.8 (beta) twilight portrait



Jake, could you please post more detailed info from those shots? It would be interesting to see it. I am curious to see them in their original size, too. I guess they are not that different from each other. I mean, look at the shadows on both pictures. They are almost equally lit. IMO the most noticeable differences are color saturation and contrast. The second one is way more saturated than the first one and also lacks some contrast.

Here's one more night shot from mine (this time resized). It was taken with the mixed Cybershot Xp + DM 3.5:


[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-08 04:53 ]


Posted by zilver_123
Hi Vit, I put the combination Xperience Cybershot 4.1 and DM 3.5 to my C905 with the English language, a question I can help with how to use manual settings options (2) and manual settings (1)? I see several new and nose how to use them or control them such as the ISO control, white balance, Part 2 and Part 1 (focus, contrast, saturation, effects), could guide me a bit? thanks

Posted by toxicneo

On 2009-11-07 17:22:25, Vit wrote:

On 2009-11-07 17:04:09, toxicneo wrote:
in the path ifs/settings/camera/ i find two cameras files cammera0.dat and cammera2.dat. shld i delete cammera2.dat? so that I can paste frm dm 3.5 zip the cammera0.dat file.


No, no! Do not delete camera2.dat. That's the driver for the front camera. You should only replace the original camera0.dat with the new one. Just remember to use the command "read" before doing that, in order to backup your original driver.



I moved DM3.5 camdriver0.dat to my phone using A2 uploader. I switched off the phone and switched on.. i couldnt c any changes in the camera menu. did do smething wrong ?

Posted by riksilvers

I moved DM3.5 camdriver0.dat to my phone using A2 uploader. I switched off the phone and switched on.. i couldnt c any changes in the camera menu. did do smething wrong ?


@ toxicneo
You need to copy the en.lng file to TPA/PRESET/SYSTEM/LANGUAGE so they say, but it still made no difference to the menus for me.



Posted by riksilvers
I did notice as soon as you edit a .lng file with LNG_Editor_0.0.1.3 it becomes unreadable. The languge is then not seen on the phones language menu.

Posted by rajac
@DM
There's a bug with 3.8
when you flash,manual shutter speed can't work.

Posted by mikely_28

On 2009-11-08 16:21:20, rajac wrote:
@DM
There's a bug with 3.8
when you flash,manual shutter speed can't work.


It only works with night landscape I think

Posted by WindowsSeven
is there video driver with bigger resolution on video clip for the telephone , thanks

Posted by penguin_xp
@jake

I still did not try to take a shot of a moving object at night or in low-light environment. What I observed with DM 3.8 is when taking night shots then adjusting shutter speed to +2.0EV, it brightens the scene like in adjusting the exposure. I am not good with technical terms in photography since I am not a photographer, I only try and test shots for the right settings of the camera. And I am still familiarizing with this new driver that is why I could not advise you what is the right settings in a certain scenario. I am only depending on my test shots.

As I've understand, when setting the shutter speed to +2.0, more light reaches the sensor since there is a longer time of exposing light to the sensor making the image brighter.

For photographers out there, can you help us with the terms in photography, maybe that will enlighten us somehow on what are the right settings to be used in taking shots...

@Vit

Can you also post pictures taken indoors with low light?
Thanks...
[ This Message was edited by: penguin_xp on 2009-11-08 18:20 ]


Posted by mikely_28

On 2009-11-08 19:17:41, WindowsSeven wrote:
is there video driver with bigger resolution on video clip for the telephone , thanks


Try Eltoffer camdriver with night setting video.

Posted by Vit

On 2009-11-08 19:17:59, penguin_xp wrote:
@jake

I still did not try to take a shot of a moving object at night or in low-light environment. What I observed with DM 3.8 is when taking night shots then adjusting shutter speed to +2.0EV, it brightens the scene like in adjusting the exposure. I am not good with technical terms in photography since I am not a photographer, I only try and test shots for the right settings of the camera. And I am still familiarizing with this new driver that is why I could not advise you what is the right settings in a certain scenario. I am only depending on my test shots.

As I've understand, when setting the shutter speed to +2.0, more light reaches the sensor since there is a longer time of exposing light to the sensor making the image brighter.

For photographers out there, can you help us with the terms in photography, maybe that will enlighten us somehow on what are the right settings to be used in taking shots...

@Vit

Can you also post pictures taken indoors with low light?
Thanks...
[ This Message was edited by: penguin_xp on 2009-11-08 18:20 ]



I'm not a pro shooter, but, as I've written, even with DM 3.5, which sets ISO 100 for Twilight Landscape mode, what happens when we change EV values (on that particular mode) is increase/decreasing the exposure or, in other words, decrease the shutter speed. Take a look @ one of my last comments on the subject. Normally, when shooting in AUTO mode, changing EV values changes automatically both ISO and shutter speed. If you set ISO to a fixed value, there's only shutter speeds left to be changed.

As for the the brigthness of those pics, differences in contrast and brightness may be confused with differences in exposure times. That's why I asked for EXIF info on those shots. I guess those might be the differences between them, besides the most noticeable color saturation on the second one.

It also feels that Jake has confused the shots from his two posts. Look at the most saturated pictures of the two pairs of pics he's posted. In the first comparison, the most saturated one is labeled as DM 3.5, and in the second comparison is the contrary.

I will take some night indoor shots today with my mixed drivers, which have Twilight Landscapes modes based upon DM 3.5, and post them later here. I will take them with 3 different EV values, -2.0, 0.0 and +2.0.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-08 19:41 ]


Posted by wahehe15
Thanks for all the info guys...
very much appreciated

Posted by jake20

On 2009-11-08 20:26:03, Vit wrote:
I'm not a pro shooter, but, as I've written, even with DM 3.5, which sets ISO 100 for Twilight Landscape mode, what happens when we change EV values (on that particular mode) is increase/decreasing the exposure or, in other words, decrease the shutter speed. Take a look @ one of my last comments on the subject. Normally, when shooting in AUTO mode, changing EV values changes automatically both ISO and shutter speed. If you set ISO to a fixed value, there's only shutter speeds left to be changed.

As for the the brigthness of those pics, differences in contrast and brightness may be confused with differences in exposure times. That's why I asked for EXIF info on those shots. I guess those might be the differences between them, besides the most noticeable color saturation on the second one.

It also feels that Jake has confused the shots from his two posts. Look at the most saturated pictures of the two pairs of pics he's posted. In the first comparison, the most saturated one is labeled as DM 3.5, and in the second comparison is the contrary.

I will take some night indoor shots today with my mixed drivers, which have Twilight Landscapes modes based upon DM 3.5, and post them later here. I will take them with 3 different EV values, -2.0, 0.0 and +2.0.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-08 19:41 ]



@Vit
Hi,
thanks for all of the tips so far.

I did not confuse the 2 sets of comparison shots. You'll notice that the first set of shots were taken on all AUTO settings, and the next set were taken with twilight portrait mode.

I am not sure how DM tweaked the settings here, but this is the way the saturation came out on those shots for me.
Also, I am not taking a lot of shots and sorting through them to pick out the best quality ones which i know some people do here.. I am merely posting some comparison shots to help determine which driver is better/worse.

You are posting some very nice shots with your mixed mode driver, and I am VERY interested in this, but it would be more helpful if you explained what settings you used, and how to operate this "mixed mode" driver to achieve the quality in the shots you have posted here.

I have also updated my comparison shots with the detailed info.
i am looking forward to more shots from you
thanks!
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-08 20:21 ]


Posted by jake20

On 2009-11-04 22:45:13, mikely_28 wrote:
OK! I've got it! Works excellent!
Night shots are brilliant with shutter speed! I'm at work right now, but tomorrow I'll put some pictures.
Ah, shutter speed works with night landscape.

DM, this is just brilliant what U did! Man it's awsome!!! We have all options back and more! Great, graet, great!!!



Hi mikely,
Can you post some of your DM3.8 night shots that have come out brilliant as you say?
I am very curious to see them!! and what settings did you use for them?

thanks

Posted by jake20
I am still trying to figure out how the settings work with DM 3.5 even.. I am not so sure I even need a better driver.
I just took this shot.. the settings were

Twilight portrait
AUTO Everything Else
EV +1.3
No Flash

The pic details after show ISO 500, and it was it a very dimly lit room.


[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-09 03:06 ]


Posted by penguin_xp

On 2009-11-08 20:26:03, Vit wrote:

On 2009-11-08 19:17:59, penguin_xp wrote:
@jake

I still did not try to take a shot of a moving object at night or in low-light environment. What I observed with DM 3.8 is when taking night shots then adjusting shutter speed to +2.0EV, it brightens the scene like in adjusting the exposure. I am not good with technical terms in photography since I am not a photographer, I only try and test shots for the right settings of the camera. And I am still familiarizing with this new driver that is why I could not advise you what is the right settings in a certain scenario. I am only depending on my test shots.

As I've understand, when setting the shutter speed to +2.0, more light reaches the sensor since there is a longer time of exposing light to the sensor making the image brighter.

For photographers out there, can you help us with the terms in photography, maybe that will enlighten us somehow on what are the right settings to be used in taking shots...

@Vit

Can you also post pictures taken indoors with low light?
Thanks...



I'm not a pro shooter, but, as I've written, even with DM 3.5, which sets ISO 100 for Twilight Landscape mode, what happens when we change EV values (on that particular mode) is increase/decreasing the exposure or, in other words, decrease the shutter speed. Take a look @ one of my last comments on the subject. Normally, when shooting in AUTO mode, changing EV values changes automatically both ISO and shutter speed. If you set ISO to a fixed value, there's only shutter speeds left to be changed.

As for the the brigthness of those pics, differences in contrast and brightness may be confused with differences in exposure times. That's why I asked for EXIF info on those shots. I guess those might be the differences between them, besides the most noticeable color saturation on the second one.

It also feels that Jake has confused the shots from his two posts. Look at the most saturated pictures of the two pairs of pics he's posted. In the first comparison, the most saturated one is labeled as DM 3.5, and in the second comparison is the contrary.

I will take some night indoor shots today with my mixed drivers, which have Twilight Landscapes modes based upon DM 3.5, and post them later here. I will take them with 3 different EV values, -2.0, 0.0 and +2.0.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-08 19:41 ]



Thank you for the explanation Vit. I also noticed that when taking shots. Changing the EV settings also automatically adjusts the shutter speed and ISO settings. I guess, this is because the phone compensates with the changes made in the EV. This is also the reason I am still taking test shots with DM 3.8 since I am curious regarding the results that will come out when changing manual shutter speed and the ISO. Based on the 2 night shots I've previously posted with DM 3.8, adjusting the manual shutter speed to +2.0 results to 1/4s exposure time setting the ISO to 200 and 2.0EV. I observed that whatever value I set with the manual shutter speed, the same value goes with the EV settings.

I am now using the first driver edited by Vit, I will try to test and post some pictures.
[ This Message was edited by: penguin_xp on 2009-11-09 07:34 ]


Posted by jake20

On 2009-11-08 20:26:03, Vit wrote:
I'm not a pro shooter, but, as I've written, even with DM 3.5, which sets ISO 100 for Twilight Landscape mode, what happens when we change EV values (on that particular mode) is increase/decreasing the exposure or, in other words, decrease the shutter speed. Take a look @ one of my last comments on the subject. Normally, when shooting in AUTO mode, changing EV values changes automatically both ISO and shutter speed. If you set ISO to a fixed value, there's only shutter speeds left to be changed.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-08 19:41 ]



Hi Vit, sorry for my ignorance, but I am not too experienced in photography.
My question about your comment above here is that if we already have a manual ISO menu in DM 3.5, and changing the EV value effectively is changing the shutter speed, then why do we really need a manual shutter speed option?

sorry if this is a stupid question, i am just a little confused here

on another note... Does anyone know if there is any way to get rid of the annoying beep that sounds when auto focusing?


thanks
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-09 16:43 ]


Posted by penguin_xp
@jake

I guess having manual settings in a camera gives the user more control of it in taking shots base on what he/she wants the output of the image would be. Setting the ISO and the manual shutter speed on whatever settings you want makes it a fixed value. Even though you adjust the EV settings, it will not affect the ISO and the shutter speed since it was already set to a fixed value. I believe this is what Vit is trying to say in his statement.

In the case of DM3.8, manual shutter speed and EV value can be set using the right D-pad. This means that you cannot set the 2 settings at the same time. When Shutter Speed is selected in the menu settings, adjusting the right key of the D-pad will adjust the shutter speed not the EV value. In order to adjust the EV value, you need to select the Auto or the Color Correction settings in the menu. The same goes with the Focus. In order to change the manual focus, you need to select it in the menu. Then adjusting the right key of the D-pad will adjust the manual focus not the EV value nor the shutter speed.

I hope I was able to help you understand. Please also correct me if I am wrong...

Posted by rajac
@Vit
I have seen your pics with 4.1+3.5.So amazing!But there's a little problem with me.I can't open your link...
So could you please Email me in mallone@sina.com?Thanks a lot!

Posted by barareklam
@jake20
http://www.esato.com/board/viewtopic.php?topic=184015

Posted by jake20
@barareklam
Thanks for that link, perfect!!



I also tried Vit's mixed driver, and took some comparison shots, and I had very bad results with low light indoor shots.
Shots from DM 3.5/3.8 came out better.. but then again, the CBE 4.1 driver has so many options to configure, I would really like some info from Vit on what settings he used to produce those wonderful pictures.

I really do not think it will get any better than DM 3.5 for ease of use vs quality of images.
I guess I need to ask myself that..

Do I want to use the CBE 4.1+DM 3.5 mixed driver, and have to fiddle with a lot of settings all the time?
or
Do I want more of a point and shoot driver that is easier to use, but less configurable?

I think, ease of use maybe, but i am not 100% sure really yet..
i would like to see what Vit has to say, about what settings he uses for that mixed mode driver to produce the pictures he posted.
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-09 19:13 ]


Posted by colmoss
i have F305. want to connect it with PC and also used PC SUite 6.0, but that doest detect my phone, kindly help.

Posted by riksilvers

On 2009-11-09 20:26:25, colmoss wrote:
i have F305. want to connect it with PC and also used PC SUite 6.0, but that doest detect my phone, kindly help.


@colmoss
This is a C905 camdriver forum.!!

Try here



Posted by Vit
@ all:

Sorry about not providing full explanations on how to use the Cybershot mixed driver, but I am really in a rush this week and, as its interface is the same as the original Cybershot Xperience 4.1 that has already been posted right here @ this thread, I thought that you would figure them out at ease.

Plainly, what I do when I use that particular mixed driver is trying to take every single night shot with Twilight Landscape mode on, even indoor shots (yeah! manual focus works in this mode, too!). Then I select the menu that offers color tunning. Once I get all the colors as I wanted, it's a only matter of getting the phone still and shooting with the self timer on (Indoor shots without flash come out more or less good as with any other driver - I guess that's the C905 camera's Achille's heel).

Here it goes, in my opinion, the goodies about that driver:

- It's possible to change the focus manually even in Twilight Landscape mode, which offers locked focus at infinite by default. So you can shoot any near object with that awesome slow shutter speed;
- Color fine tuning. That's handy when you face complex lighting scenarios;
- Manual contrast;
- Manual saturation.

And what I don't like about that driver:

- Portrait shots with flash get way too much saturation that I could not get rid of.
- Manual ISO doesn't seem to work as good as with DM 3.5 (and hence with my mixed driver that includes some of its set ups)
- As EV controls only the values for its new features, you cannot change Exposure Compensation anymore (at least I could not figure out a way of doing that). So you end up with the same shutter speed for a fixed ISO value (and there's no way of using Spot Metering in Twilight mode to overcome that problem).

=> Summing it up, I guess that it could be a 'serious business' option when shooting @ NIGHT (both indoor and outdoor) with SLOW SHUTTER SPEED and NO FLASH under COMPLEX LIGHTING. Mind you that almost all my nightshots came from around my house; I will try to take some shots from somewhere else with even more different set ups than I did before, in order to provide you with more convincing arguments of how many options of fine color tuning we've got with this one. Besides, I guess IT CAN BE A GREAT DAYLIGHT SHOOTER, too. It's just a matter of getting used to the interface. I've got some great shots with DM 3.5, as you can see within my Picasa page, but some of them came out too saturated. Besides, I will not get the opportunity to come back at that place so soon, so I won't be able to offer a direct comparison based on thas location. I will try to take some more outdoor shots with it as soon as I can and then post them here. I am also in debit with some of you for some indoor shots, but I'll post some soon.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-09 21:27 ]



Posted by wahehe15
@vit
this is because DM's 3.8 still has bugs
we are expected to have two more drivers from DM if i'm not mistaken.


btw pinoy k b?

Posted by riksilvers
debranded my phone. Now I can see and use the new en.lng...
[ This Message was edited by: riksilvers on 2009-11-10 11:25 ]


Posted by Vit
More night shots and some night indoors @ a good old snooker bar. I reckon this is the best we can get with C905 when shooting indoors (untill someone figure out how to reach ISO 64 as for daylight pics in Auto mode):































Posted by fangdue
who can teach me how to use the manual adjustment mode( ISO, Shuter speed...) in the D.M 3.8 cam driver.Thx all

Posted by wahehe15
@Vit
Picture no. 1 & 3 looks ok,
but the rest is a no no

Posted by Vit

On 2009-11-10 15:01:27, wahehe15 wrote:
@Vit
Picture no. 1 & 3 looks ok,
but the rest is a no no


Sorry, pal, but simply stating they are a "no-no" is not a particularly precise way of criticize something...

All of these shots were taken @ ISO 100. Pics 2-4 were taken under extremely low light conditions. The bottle of "cachaša" is right on focus and the picture has a very smooth level of noise for that rough condition. Those stairs were taken with the phone in handheld condition, so it was virtually impossible to get it @ the maximum sharpness. Pictures @ the bar have been taken with manual focus and sometimes it's difficult to get it right, as we've got a small screen to look at. Anyway, if you take a look (as apparently you have not) at that yellow bottle with a glass beside it, you'll see it's extremely well focused (see the water drops in it). Most of those bar shots are extremely sharp and well lit, with almost no visible noise. Another thing to bear in mind is that these pictures are still highly compressed by Picasa (3-4 Mb to 300kb), what means that they still are not shown at their full glory. I really don't get your "no-no" simplist criticism.

Anyway, if you can take better low-light indoors than these (in similar conditions), be my guest and post them here.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-10 14:38 ]


Posted by jake20
@VIT,
thanks for the pictures.. is this from your mixed 4.1+ dm3.5 driver?

I also noticed that most of your shots are taken with the camera on a flat surface.. My personal use for a camera phone is not so much professional landscape shots, where I have time to prepare a scene, position the camera correctly, and fiddle with the camera settings for a few minutes.

I want to use this camera for every day use when I go places, vacations, or when I just want to capture a moment, and I need to pull out my camera and take a picture very quickly.

With all that said, I think that DM3.5/3.8 would work better for me, and provide the right balance between ease of use, and quality of images.

From what I have seen, the CBE 4.1 driver is not so good on auto settings, or to be used as a quick point and shoot camera driver.

Please let me know if I am incorrect here.
thanks!
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-10 14:41 ]


Posted by penguin_xp
I agree with jake.
CBE 4.1 is not a quick point and shoot camera. I've also tried this camdriver and I was so confused with the right settings in order to get a good shot. In my opinion, this camdriver is not suitable to use in everyday situation wherein you can see something which you want take a shot in a matter of a few seconds. However, this is a good camera (I guess) to those who are used to adjust settings first before taking a shot. Although, you may still need to configure the right mixture of settings just to get a good shot that you want.

That's just my opinion...

Posted by riksilvers
So far for me DM35 is the easy one for just snapping away. Shame you can't have 2 camdriver files in your phone one for arty and one for snappy and both with their own menus..

@Vit
Original + DM 3.5
I set ISO 100 yet photo shows ISO 200 !?!
[ This Message was edited by: riksilvers on 2009-11-10 15:59 ]


Posted by Vit

On 2009-11-10 16:21:36, penguin_xp wrote:
I agree with jake.
CBE 4.1 is not a quick point and shoot camera. I've also tried this camdriver and I was so confused with the right settings in order to get a good shot. In my opinion, this camdriver is not suitable to use in everyday situation wherein you can see something which you want take a shot in a matter of a few seconds. However, this is a good camera (I guess) to those who are used to adjust settings first before taking a shot. Although, you may still need to configure the right mixture of settings just to get a good shot that you want.

That's just my opinion...


... Well... I am really feeling kind of frustrated, because I've never said it was the best all around camdriver, even if it's not that nightmare you depicted either. I feel that everything that I wrote about the driver was like writing to the wind. Have you at least taken a look at my previous posts? I find it perfectly suitable for the job if you intend to use it in AUTO mode. It's exactly the same as the original driver if you do not change anything. Anyway, I am tired of repeating everything over and over again.

In the meantime, I will try to cut some of those manual features of it and leave just the necessary for take good slow shutter shots. That way it's gonna be a good all around, in my opinion. My plan is to reduce manual settings to these:

- Manual focus;
- Manual saturation;
- Color balance (cyan-red);
- Color balance (yellow-blue);

For the rest, I guess I'll leave just as my mixed DM 3.5 + Original.

(tell me what you think about it)


On 2009-11-10 16:51:24, riksilvers wrote:
So far for me DM35 is the easy one for just snapping away. Shame you can't have 2 camdriver files in your phone one for arty and one for snappy and both with their own menus..

@Vit
Original + DM 3.5
I set ISO 100 yet photo shows ISO 200 !?!
[ This Message was edited by: riksilvers on 2009-11-10 15:59 ]



Did you use the flash? I guess that flash shots are all taken with ISO 200.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-10 16:19 ]


Posted by riksilvers

On 2009-11-10 17:03:50, Vit wrote:

On 2009-11-10 16:21:36, penguin_xp wrote:
I agree with jake.
CBE 4.1 is not a quick point and shoot camera. I've also tried this camdriver and I was so confused with the right settings in order to get a good shot. In my opinion, this camdriver is not suitable to use in everyday situation wherein you can see something which you want take a shot in a matter of a few seconds. However, this is a good camera (I guess) to those who are used to adjust settings first before taking a shot. Although, you may still need to configure the right mixture of settings just to get a good shot that you want.

That's just my opinion...


... Well... I am really feeling kind of frustrated, because I've never said it was the best all around camdriver, even if it's not that nightmare you depicted either. I feel that everything that I wrote about the driver was like writing to the wind. Have you at least taken a look at my previous posts? I find it perfectly suitable for the job if you intend to use it in AUTO mode. It's exactly the same as the original driver if you do not change anything. Anyway, I am tired of repeating everything over and over again.


On 2009-11-10 16:51:24, riksilvers wrote:
So far for me DM35 is the easy one for just snapping away. Shame you can't have 2 camdriver files in your phone one for arty and one for snappy and both with their own menus..

@Vit
Original + DM 3.5
I set ISO 100 yet photo shows ISO 200 !?!


Did you use the flash? I guess that flash shots are all taken with ISO 200.
[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-10 16:06 ]



Yes I used flash.

@penguin_xp
@ jake
CBE 4.1 is a great driver. You just need to learn how to use it....DM35 would suit more your needs by the look of what your saying. No one said you have to use CBE 4.1.
You might find the new DM38 (when it's out) too complicated too.

Just stick with one of the early DM camdrivers in that case. Still better than the original camdriver.



Posted by penguin_xp
@Vit
@riksilvers

Please don't get me wrong...I have nothing against the CBE 4.1. and I really appreciate the work of Vit and the other modders. Just like my previous post, that is just my opinion. The truth is I also like a camdriver with a bit of manual settings wherein I can control the shots that I would like to take. I also did not say that CBE 4.1 or the ones edited by Vit is not a great camdriver. If I said it on my previous post, sorry but that is not what I meant. I just want to say that CBE 4.1 is a bit complicated than the other camdrivers, even with DM 3.8. Actually, I'm looking forward with DM's camdriver. I liked the idea of the manual shutter speed, ISO, and focus.

Anyway, I'm also looking forward to the camdriver that Vit will edit. Reducing the manual settings to the most important ones.
[ This Message was edited by: penguin_xp on 2009-11-10 16:53 ]


Posted by jake20
@Vit
thanks for all of you help, i appreciate it, and please do not take any comments made here personally.
the information you have taken time to post here has been very helpful to me, whether I decide to use your driver or not.

I do know that I have loaded your mixed mode driver, and taken some low light comparison shots in AUTO mode, and they did not come out as good as DM3.5, so that is what I am basing my comments on.

Please do not stop posting! Everyone's input here will only lead to the best possible driver for us all to use


Posted by mikely_28

On 2009-11-09 01:33:13, jake20 wrote:

Hi mikely,
Can you post some of your DM3.8 night shots that have come out brilliant as you say?
I am very curious to see them!! and what settings did you use for them?

thanks

Sure!
All night mode ISO 200



















Posted by penguin_xp
Here are some sample pics I took using Vit's Original+DM3.5 camdriver:











With Flash:


Without flash:


Posted by jake20
@mikely & penguin

nice pics! but I honestly cannot tell if they are better or worse than DM 3.5 or not.
its so hard to tell unless you have comparison shots.

@penguin,
what settings did you use for your shots?

specifically the 5th picture of the cars going by on the street.
thanks
[ This Message was edited by: jake20 on 2009-11-10 18:37 ]


Posted by penguin_xp
On daylight shots, I always use landscape scene, ISO is set to auto in order to get ISO 64, EV value is reduced to -0.7 to -2.0 depending on the brightness of the day, white balance is daylight.

I always use twilight landscape when shooting night pics outdoors (except for close-up shots, I use twilight portrait).
On that particular shot, I adjusted EV value to -0.3 to reduce a bit the exposure of the lights, ISO auto, white balance auto.

Posted by edwardob
i think everyone is doing marvelous work...here.....work that sony ericsson should have done in first place.
all the drivers are better than the original.
i suppose if we wanted the perfect camera.....that's what we should do...buy a camera!this is a phone afterall.

now i a completely happy to bring it with me on holiday...without having to also carry my canon ixus.i even bought the se stand for still shots.

i'm using dm 3.5 at moment....afer trying all others only because i'm comfortable with settings.

i like what vit is doing...something i could'nt do.
the idea of having control when you want is great......auto when your're in a hurry!

i just not fully understanding ev...iso and so on..and the connection between them..so i'm standing back at moment.
this last few day have been great learning curve....so it won't be long now before i dive in.

i think from my reading over the last few days there is something here for everyone..just take your pick!

these lads are doing great work...only let's give them more thanks.......because they deserve it

Posted by wahehe15
@vit
your pics are no good
but I know you can do better
look at mikely_28's pics
they're good

i think everyone is doing marvelous work...here.....work that sony ericsson should have done in first place.
all the drivers are better than the original.
i suppose if we wanted the perfect camera.....that's what we should do...buy a camera!this is a phone afterall.


Why should we buy a camera if c905 is better than a camera(this is what I think...the c905 is still better than any camera except slr cameras), and DM can do a better driver to improve c905's camera
[ This Message was edited by: wahehe15 on 2009-11-10 22:29 ]


Posted by fe1ixs
Here is an indoor shot I just took with DM 3.8....
Setting : ISO 100 / twilight landscape / focus EV +2.0 / No flash
Since macro function disable on twilight scene, I choose manual focus as an alternative.


Here is another one. same setting but this time I use Auto ISO.

[ This Message was edited by: fe1ixs on 2009-11-10 22:36 ]


Posted by edwardob

On 2009-11-10 23:02:29, wahehe15 wrote:
@vit
your pics are no good
but I know you can do better
look at mikely_28's pics
they're good




@vit photo's so far are excellent and so are his explanations......i hope he does'nt leave the thread....

if you don't like his method or drivers don't use them...buy a slr!
it's because of people like him our c905 are so good and replace our camera so well

i don't think he's competing with anyone[ie...dm] he's just sharing what he found to be beneficial for him.... which he clearly said..........and was kind enough to share his mods with us.....when we asked him....he's good guy!

forums allways go wrong when people start having a go at others


again there're doing great work...let the inspirations flow...don't hinder these artist or they may stop altogether




Posted by jake20
Is the manual shutter speed in DM 3.8 working at all?
if so, can anyone explain how to use it properly?

thanks

Posted by Vit

On 2009-11-10 19:29:16, penguin_xp wrote:
Here are some sample pics I took using Vit's Original+DM3.5 camdriver:



Nice pics! I don't know whether you like them, but what I like about the original driver is the precise saturation of colors. They look more real to me. That's what motivated me to make this simple mod based on it and on the great job of our fellow DM.

Here we've got some simple daylight pictures taken with the mixed CS 4.1 + DM 3.5 with Auto mode @ ISO 64 (too bad that Picasa compresses them too much - the pic from that tree had originally 5.7 Mb):





These are not so inspiring places to depict, but it's all I got for today. This weekend I am gonna travel and I hope I can take some better shots.

Another macro shot:


[ This Message was edited by: Vit on 2009-11-10 23:32 ]


Posted by Vit

On 2009-11-10 23:41:40, edwardob wrote:

On 2009-11-10 23:02:29, wahehe15 wrote:
@vit
your pics are no good
but I know you can do better
look at mikely_28's pics
they're good




@vit photo's so far are excellent and so are his explanations......i hope he does'nt leave the thread....

if you don't like his method or drivers don't use them...buy a slr!
it's because of people like him our c905 are so good and replace our camera so well

i don't think he's competing with anyone[ie...dm] he's just sharing what he found to be beneficial for him.... which he clearly said..........and was kind enough to share his mods with us.....when we asked him....he's good guy!

forums allways go wrong when people start having a go at others


again there're doing great work...let the inspirations flow...don't hinder these artist or they may stop altogether




Thanks for your kind words, man. I only did minor changes to already existent drivers and combined what I judged to be the best parts of them all. As I said, we have to praise only the original modders, not me. And I not going to get into a pointless quarrel with wahehe15 @ the level he's trying to impose.


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